Tasting Note: Dr Loosen Bernkasteler Lay Riesling Kabinett 2013
Dr Loosen produces a number of stellar Rieslings, at many price points. The ‘Dr. L’ range is an introductory Riesling, followed by the estate Rieslings such as ‘Blue Slate’ and ‘Red Slate’, and varying in dryness. The single vineyard Rieslings are outstanding and produce intriguing and mouth-watering wines vintage after vintage. The single-vineyard Rieslings (of which this is one) are equivalent to a Grand Cru, called Grosse Lage in Germany. Located closer to the village of Bernkastel, the Bernkasteler Lay vineyard produces what I would describe as a beautiful bedrock to this lighter Riesling style. Kabinett can be laid down for several years, or consumed immediately. The 2013 vintage in the Mosel was terrible for fruit set and led to much botrytis and wet. But there is going to be some great quality wines emerging, even though harvest was much, much smaller than usual. WARNING – this wine will divide some opinions!
The colour is clear lemon-green. Over time it would probably develop deeper, browner colours. The aroma shows hints of butter, lemon, lemon zest, hints of lime, white flowers, flower stems, hints of minerals, and tropical fruits. The nose smacks you - it is devastatingly liked whisked lemon curd. Don’t get me wrong, it is VERY attractive. Swirling this wine is like swirling a bucket of thickened cream. Slight hints of warmth and a bit toasty-yeasty. As it warms you start to get dry dirt on the nose. Quite a brilliant varietal expression, but the nose doesn’t tell the full story.
Tasting the wine, it’s like a gob of zest in your teeth. It’s a tropical fruit explosion – a fruit bomb. Citrus and cream, very very sweet. Very tropical juice-like. Wonder about the residual sugar? Drinking it is like a mouthful of tropical cream, like passionfruit cream and passionfruit seeds. Pineapple juice. Completely surprising wine. It’s a very weighty wine, with a complex burst of fruit throughout, and a good finish. Acidity is quite high, but balanced by the fruit. Medium plus body.
I was absolutely surprised by this wine, expecting a tamer Riesling than the one that reached from the glass, grabbed my face, and pulled it into the glass. It is dangerously addictive. 94+ points. It will improve in the next couple of years – can’t wait to have it then!
Good drinking to you,
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